INTERTOOL Log Splitting Maul Axe - 36” Wood Chopping Ax with Rust Resistant Steel, Shock Absorbing Fiberglass Anti-Slip Handle, & Blade Sheath Cover - HT-0275

I use this to finish off little stumps in my back yard. A little crude but it does the job. Mine came pretty sharp so no additional sharpening yet. The protector over the metal blade is good to keep it secure. I’ve also used this to dig up roots where they shouldn’t be. This is a handy tool to have around the house. The quality is strong and I’d rather have this than a wooden axe because the wood ones tend to break on me. Remember to wear gloves to avoid blisters if you’re going to use it for a tough job.

This axe has the perfect balance and feel. I welded a log hook to it as I wasn't finding a combo axe and hookaroon.

Very nice

This would do great if it had three or four more pounds. I split much wood in the last few weeks. I hit rocks and nails and barbed wire hidden in the wood. Yet the edge shows no nicks or chips. This was mind blowing. I hit hard in the ground about 6 or 7 times each with a s good deal of rock flying out. I even hit a old barbed wire inside the wood. and 2 nails or screws. Thus so far the edge of my axe has no nick or chip on it. But I have seen my axe bounce from hitting some rot wood that was dried out and seen it stick in deep when hitting wet rot wood. So I think if this axe had more weight to it it would have not bounced from or stuck in deep and taken me much energy to remove from the wood with rot . I think 3 or 4 more pounds would have powered thru the wet rot and kept from a bounce from the dry rot woodChopping wood, Have the axe over your shoulder behind you, Bring the axe up swigging it down but let the weight and gravity do the work after you get the axe at the highest point in the swing. This is how you save energy and wear and tear on your body. Never try to carry thru on a swing this will only cause you pain and make your aim from hitting where you would like it to hit. If you having a issue hitting where you want too. Try some soft swings and try keeping the hits in the same area. over lapping would be best. New wood chopping people should try keeping logs 12 to 18" long and the same in width as a single hit to chop the log. Use less speed and force on each half log that you just split. Now on really big logs keep the logs cut to 12" long the wood will split easy if you work outside wood all the way around the log you will chop off the edge of the log in flat splits that will latter be great for making Kindling. It will be long and flat because the splitting of the wood will run with the wood grain. I split some36 to 47" width logs from a old oak this way with the greatest of ease. True I had much Kindling but one can never go wrong with wood that will dry fast and burn very easy with little heat source. The trick to get wood to burn best is have air from under fire and honestly wood don't burn. Wood when heated will release a gas in the form of smoke the gas/ Smoke is what the fire will feed from. So if you have a lot of smoke the fire needs more air or you will waste the wood as the gas will rise fast from the heating source that turns smoke to plasma known as fire.. Once wood has been changed to a carbon it will hold the heat for much longer. It will look like some glowing ambers know as a coal bed this need only a small air flow to keep the heat glowing for hours Adding a lot of air to a coal bed hotter but it will lose heat much faster as the heat will travel up away from the carbon in a force know as convection .And letting the carbon cool and turn to ash. LOL sorry I am a little bit of a pyromaniac. But I know fire well. If you are too you should get a good axe like this one and enjoy turning logs into what burns with ease , firewood. I hope you enjoy the axe. I do.

Good soild tool. Haven't used it yet.

Very sturdy

First, it's heavy. After splitting a good sized pile, my arm was tired. But I purposefully bought a heavy one as they split far better than lighter ones, and I'd rather swing a heavier hatchet at 50% effort than swing a much lighter one as hard as I could and hope I don't injure myself or others. Heavier axes and hatchets go through wood a lot easier, but it's a tradeoff. Having had both, I find a heavier one suits me much better, even if I'm a 5'8" IT guy and not a flannel wearing neckbearded lumberjack who lives for this stuff.Second, it's a maul, which means it has a much wider wedge than an axe or hatchet does. This makes it far more difficult to get the thing stuck in a piece of wood. If you take a full swing with a slim wedged hatchet on a knot-riddled piece of 2x6, you'll bury it. Good luck getting it out. But a maul is far more likely to split it wide. Wood can often accommodate a slender split without popping open when cutting with the grain, so it's easy to get a hatchet stuck. A wider maul shaped head is close to 3x as wide, making it more likely to pop the wood in half.The combination of the two (heavier weight and maul shape) make it great at splitting.

The extra wedge in the design makes it pop those wood chunks with ease.